Jurassic swimming, live gunnery & biscuit tossing

What a top day!  Started slowly in posh Portland Marina - what a long walk to the facilities.  Before setting off we called for information on the firing range operation (they do a lot of that between Weymouth and Swanage, and might force us to go 3 miles out to sea).  We were told the army was not firing today - good - but the navy is doing some live gunnery practice - not so good;  they are firing from a ship off Portland Bill to a spot off St Alban's Head 17 miles away.  We figured we would be allowed to sail along the coast, and have the option of getting round St Alban's Head after they finished at 1600 and before the tide goes against us at 1700.  

Durdle Door - famous rock archway

Decided to only have an outline plan today - Nic feels he is in his home territory.  Sailed across Weymouth Bay in a very civilised SSE F3, started to tack which meant very slow progress.  We realised we would not have time to see the Jurassic Coast up close and make the tide gate around St Alban's Head.  So we motor-sailed along parallel to the cliffs, said hello to Lulworth Cove which was busy and anchored in Worbarrow Bay, at the eastern end to get shelter from the modest wind and waves.  The only other boat was a dive boat who had obviously anchored there for lunch.  The beach (stony) was deserted, except for a couple of men dressed all in black who arrived in a white van, paddled, sat and disappeared again - another lunch break perhaps.  The hill behind us had a large '3' on it, presumably to identify the target when the army are shooting as we are in their ranges now.

After a little hesitation Lesley decided this was the perfect moment for a swim from the boat, and with a little bit of shrieking and no swearing at all, in she went - applause.  She took the opportunity to try out the emergency MOB ladder and we learned that it needs to be in a different position - by the cockpit looked good for being helped back on board, but the ladder swings under the boat, so it would be better midships.  I should say that all morning there have been the occasional muffled thumps as the navy sends their shells roughly in our direction.

happy sailing man

happy swimming woman

We decided with the forecast for the wind to swing south that Worbarrow was a little exposed to stay the night, so mainsail up and motor on, further along this most dramatic coast with huge cliffs and folded strata, stacks, caves and rocky beaches.  We timed it perfectly to go past the target zone just after they had stopped shelling for the day, although Nic was secretly hoping to be told to wait by a 'Range Safety' boat that nips around at 40mph warning off boats.  It is bizarre that they are firing shells, even if they are duds, over the heads of the commercial and leisure boats, to a small zone marked by buoys.

St Albans Head has tide rips with dangerous breaking waves, and you have to pass it either 3 miles off (which we did on the way down), or very close inshore.  It's a funny thing but many headlands that have these overfalls do have a narrow (100-200 metres) channel right next to them where the water is comparatively calm (as long as you are going with the tide flow).  It's called the 'biscuit toss' route in that you feel you are that close to the land! Think of Portland Bill, Mull of Kintyre, Point of Ayre in IoM.  We usually go round the outside because there are risks (engine failure, pot buoy snagging) and we don't need to take them.  This time though the detour would have been enormous and it was a calm-ish day ... and it was fine.  Huge cliffs you feel you could touch, and on the other side breaking waves 100 metres away - and this was neap tides and F2 wind.

Old Harry, old friend (off Studland)

We thought now that we'd anchor in Poole Harbour, because the easterlies would have left an uncomfortable swell.  The wind had died away completely, temporary clouds had vanished and the late afternoon sun kissed the cliffs and fields as we rounded Anvil Point, Durlston Head, marvelled at how hidden Swanage is when coming from the south, ambled past Old Harry rocks, and gazed upon Studland Bay once more.   It looked so peaceful and inviting that we changed plans and anchored here again.  Slightly rolly, but as beautiful as ever.  Then as Lesley was cooking up a stir-fry Nic shouted "there's a Cadbury's boat - I wonder if they are giving away free samples?".  Too much sun has gone to the poor lad's head she thought as he leapt into the cockpit and waved.  A minute later there was a small boat alongside emblazoned with Cadbury's logos and Nic was buying ice-creams for our dessert.

Now everything is quietening down for the evening, the hugely irritating jet-skis have gone to bed (or to hell, hopefully), and we are ready for zzz too.